'Gomtang' and 'Seolleongtang': What's the Difference Between These Similar Soups?

Korean cuisine is characterized by a "tangban" culture, where soup is served alongside rice. Blowing on the hot broth in an earthenware bowl and finishing a bowlful warms you from the inside out. Among the soups we commonly encounter, Gomtang and Seolleongtang may seem similar at first glance, but they have distinct differences.

The key difference between Seolleongtang and Gomtang lies in the use of "bones."

Seolleongtang is made by simmering ox bones and miscellaneous bones, resulting in a milky, savory broth. To this, brisket and shank meat are added. In contrast, Gomtang is prepared by boiling meat, which produces a clear and slightly oily broth, often including cow tripe.

The term Gomtang originates from the Korean word "goda" (to boil for a long time). Also referred to as Gomguk, it is made by simmering ingredients like beef shank, intestines, omasum, radish, and kelp in a large cauldron.

The origins of Seolleongtang are subject to various theories. The most widely accepted explanation dates back to the Joseon Dynasty’s agricultural ritual, Seonnongje, which was held at the Seonnongdan altar where the king and his officials shared a feast with the common people. After the ceremony, an ox that was sacrificed was boiled with its meat and bones in a cauldron, and the resulting soup was served to elderly spectators over the age of 60. This is believed to be the origin of Seolleongtang.

Seolleongtang is made by boiling ingredients like tendons, brisket, ox tongue, lungs, and miscellaneous bones, including ox heads and leg bones, until the broth turns white. The process involves skimming off impurities and boiling the broth multiple times. Both Gomtang and Seolleongtang primarily use secondary cuts and offal rather than lean meat.

If Gomtang typically has a yellowish broth, Seolleongtang is made with ox bones, resulting in a milky-white broth. Traditionally, to preserve the distinct color of each broth, Gomtang was seasoned with soy sauce, while Seolleongtang was seasoned with salt to suit individual tastes.

Moreover, Gomtang can be categorized into Seoul-style, Jeolla-style, and Gyeongsang-style, depending on the region. The previously described version is Seoul-style. Jeolla-style Gomtang uses primarily lean meat, producing a clear broth. Gyeongsang-style Gomtang includes oxtail and ox feet, which are simmered for long hours, resulting in a rich and milky-white broth.

Both Gomtang and Seolleongtang are commonly enjoyed with chopped green onions added for extra flavor and are often accompanied by kkakdugi (radish kimchi). Seolleongtang is sometimes served with rice and noodles added to the soup.

During the Japanese colonial period, policies supporting cattle farming made beef more accessible and affordable. As a result, many Gomtang and Seolleongtang restaurants sprang up in areas like Mugyo-dong and Supyogyo near Cheonggyecheon in Seoul, establishing these soups as signature dishes of the city.

After the Korean War, Gomtang spread nationwide, with each region developing its own variations. Notable regional specialties include Naju Gomtang in Jeollanam-do, Hyeonpung Gomtang in Gyeongsangbuk-do, Masan Gomtang in Gyeongsangnam-do, and Haeju Gomtang in Hwanghae-do. While not strictly Gomtang, dishes like Daegu's Yukgaejang and Busan's Sundae Gukbap are also popular.

When making beef bone broth at home, it is recommended to extract the flavors and nutrients up to three times for the best taste and nutritional value. According to the National Institute of Animal Science, beyond the fourth boil, the calcium content, which is primarily derived from cartilage, significantly decreases, and the broth loses its flavor.

For storage, divide the broth into single servings and freeze them for up to a month. Avoid leaving the broth at room temperature or storing it in the refrigerator in the same container it was cooked in, as this can lead to microbial contamination and spoilage.